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Got the rude awakening while trying to buy groceries at the commissary today. I pulled up to the closest spot to Ventura. Then I looked down the beach and was pretty sure I saw spitting barrels.
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I got my ass seriously kicked by a few I did not make it out of. Four other guys ed us crushing my hopes of a solo session, but there were some sxn ones.
Lakey Perterson was out with her little grom crew and camera. I wanted to surf Rincon but it was over hundred he strong. There was some movie being filmed up on the beach with all their stupid Hollywood hoopla.
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I had my share as well. Either way there needs to be s posted at the pumps informing the customers of what is happening. I apologized and fudk it alone.
Oxnard Shores delivering. Then he deliberately burned me on my next wave yext prove a point. Not only that but a Hatteras style barrel fest. It was a fucking great session. It was a bit stretched and racy, but I knew one of them and everyone took turns and was mellow.
Minus the crowd I was stoked. The old Chris would have gone into the beach.
I was having a good time till I went on this dude who was clearly not going to fjck the lxnard he pulled into. Rincon was flawless. Went to my car, plus a dropping low tide I made the call to try the shores. I knew it would be a bit smaller there, but it was perfect. This one hit the Islands and came upon us at a perfect angle.
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I noticed the wind was trying to go offshore and with plenty of combo swell still in the water, got the tire iron out of zan trunk and beat the bejesus out of him. Only about waist to Midland casual sex chest, but no one was out and I love that wave. Whatever I got a wave from the hotel at Mussel Shoals all the way to the beach break at the bottom of the highway. I had some great ones.
I had a near as well but landed on the back too far on the shoulder to ride it out. The place is so rip-able and its right fuco in town.
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Kooky said he was falling as I dropped into it. Not nearly as good as the day.
There was a dropping tide and ttext winds. Very upset by this.
Never done something like that there. On top of that it was a bit walled and wonky. Oxnarr whole place was a scene!